November 2024 - Rebel Flying

Trip Review – VIP Train, Aswan – Luxor, Egypt

After leaving my Nile cruise on Day 4, I needed to arrange transport back to Luxor for my three-night hotel break.

Having been quoted $140 (£111) for a private taxi, I chose to try the three-hour VIP train service.

I booked my ticket at Aswan station the previous day, which was a relatively painless experience, taking around 20 minutes.

I paid the $25 (£20) fare with US Dollar cash and was issued a handwritten paper ticket, with a reserved seat in the first class carriage.

The following day, I arrived at the station around an hour in advance of the 3:15pm departure and spent several minutes hunting away importunate baggage handlers, whilst making my way to the platform.

I boarded the train around a half hour later, only to find someone already occupying my reserved seat. I attempted to enlist the assistance of the train manager, but the only English word he seemed to know was ‘tips’. Incidentally, ‘baksheesh’ is also one of the only Middle Eastern words that I know, this being a recurring theme in this part of the world.

Figuring that what is good for the goose is good for the gander, I took a seat on the opposite side of the train.

The seat I ended up occupying was in fact a superior seat, as the train is configured in 1-2 seating, with the single seats on the side with the direct river views.

The train takes a routing along the eastern bank of the Nile, meaning that the best views are from the left side of the train on northbound journeys, or the right side on southbound journeys.

The train was equipped with a lavatory, which seemed to double as an unofficial smoking room.

I availed myself of this a couple of times, although I was rather glad I didn’t have to use it for its intended purpose.

My train departed Aswan promptly at 3:15pm and arrived in Luxor around ten minutes late at 6:40pm.

In addition to the four VIP trains, there are around fifteen departures per day between these two stations, using Russian and Spanish built express trains.

Overall, this was a pleasant journey, passing the Nile Valley scenery, and an interesting and relatively comfortable way to travel between Aswan and Luxor.

Hotel Review – Citymax Hotel, Aswan, Egypt

17 November 2024
by thebouncer

Having decided to leave my Nile cruise on Day 4, I checked into the Citymax Hotel in Aswan for one night, before returning to Luxor by train.

The hotel is conveniently located on the Kornish Al Nile, which is the main riverside promenade. I chose the hotel principally for its proximity to the main railway station, around a five-minute walk away.

I booked a junior suite, mainly because it offered a balcony and was the only smoking room available. The suite was clean, sufficiently spacious for one person and comfortably furnished.

The attached balcony was sheltered, private and offered a rather engaging view of the Nile.

The hotel has a rooftop pool, which I didn’t try in the cooler winter temperatures.

The property also offers a very basic restaurant with takeaway style food, which was at least served hot. For the convenience of not having to venture back out and run the gauntlet of the persistent and ubiquitous street vendors, I was content with it.

At $141 or £112, this room was expensive by local standards. For one night, however, I considered it well worth the outlay for the convenience, comfort and ease of access.

Tour Review – Nile Cruise, MS Zaina, Luxor to Aswan, Egypt. Day 3.

16 November 2024
by thebouncer

Following a more successful second day on the cruise tour, I awoke in the next destination of the tour, Edfu.

The first of day’s activities was a visit to the world famous Temple of Horus, completed in 57BCE.

The transfer to the temple was scheduled to be by carriage, drawn by horses and donkeys. However, I refused to participate in this on ethical grounds, due to the obvious maltreatment of the animals. Much to the chagrin of my tour guide, I opted instead to take a taxi to the temple.

Having rejoined the rest of my tour group, I spent around an hour viewing the impressive temple, dating from the Ptolemaic Kingdom.

After around an hour at the temple, I returned to the ship, again by taxi, for breakfast and the first full day of cruising towards Aswan.

I spent most of the day on the rooftop deck of the ship, as we passed the riverside villages and desert scenery.

Before the ship’s arrival in Aswan, there was a short stop for a sunset visit to the majestic Kom Ombo Temple, also dating from the Ptolemaic Dynasty.

Apart from the experience with the abused animals, this had been a relaxing and enjoyable day. However, it emerged over another mediocre dinner that things were about to take a turn for the worse, as the schedule for the remaining three days was announced.

It emerged that there would be no further cruising for the next 48 hours, and that the ship would again be moored in port.

It also emerged that Day 5 would involve a 4am pick up, for an eight-hour round trip to Abu Simbel in the same rickety and overloaded minibuses which had taken me to the hot air balloon site on Day 2.

It was at this point that I made the decision to leave the cruise in Aswan the following morning. My tour agency, Get Your Guide, agreed to a 50% refund for the unused nights. I considered this a reasonable resolution.

Having seen most of what I wanted to see in Egypt, I decided to return to Luxor by train for a three-day break at the Pyramisa Hotel.

In conclusion, the cruise tour included some excellent highlights. The hot air balloon flight on Day 2 was spectacular, and the cruising on Day 3 was pleasant.

Overall, I am glad that I had this experience. However, in my opinion, there were simply too many annoyances to justify recommending a cruise tour of this length.

If you really want to take a Nile cruise, my advice is to look for a one- or two-night cruise, operating one way between Aswan and Luxor.

Tour Review – Nile Cruise, MS Zaina, Luxor to Aswan, Egypt. Day 2.

Following a disappointing first day on board MS Zaina, it was time for the highlight of the tour, a hot air balloon flight over the Valley of the Kings.

I woke around 3:15am for a 4:00am pick up. The first part of the journey was by chartered motorboat to the West Bank of the Nile, which was rather pleasant in the cool morning air.

I was then taken to the hot air balloon site by minibus, which was overloaded and somewhat uncomfortable, but manageable for the roughly 40 minute journey.

I arrived at the site around 6:00am, in time to watch the balloons being prepared.

It was then time for the breathtaking dawn take-off, along with dozens of other balloons, for the spectacular 45-minute flight over Thebes and the Valley of the Kings.

The balloon flight was a memorable experience and well worth the early start.

The second part of the day’s activities consisted of a tour of the Valley of the Kings, including visits to the Tomb of Tutankhamen and the Temple of Hatshepsut.

Late in the afternoon, I returned to the ship, which began to move towards the next stop of Edfu.

There was around three hours of early evening cruising, as the sun set over the riverside villages.

This had been a very full day of activities and it was with some relief that I heard the following day’s pick up would be a later start at 8am.

This had been a much better day, and I retired to bed in a much better mood than I had the previous evening.

Day 3 of the cruise is detailed here.

Tour Review – Nile Cruise, MS Zaina, Luxor to Aswan, Egypt. Day 1.

Following a short stay in Luxor, it was time to join my long awaited Nile cruise on board MS Zaina.

On the first day of my cruise, I was picked up from my city hotel at around 8am, for a pre-cruise tour of the sights of Luxor’s East Bank.

The first stop was the iconic Luxor Temple, known as “The Southern Sanctuary” and dating from around 1400 BCE.

The next stop was Karnak Temple, dating from the reign of Senusret I.

The temple is home to an open air museum and is one of the most visited historical sites in Egypt.

Having spent around an hour at each temple, I joined the ship at around 11am for the passage along the Nile to Aswan.

I had booked my cruise via Get Your Guide and was assigned to the MS Zaina.

Photograph courtesy of Egypt Joy Travel.

On the face of it, the ship looked comfortable. The cabins were nicely furnished and well equipped, and there was also a rooftop pool available.

Unfortunately, this is where a series of annoyances began.

Firstly, I was informed that all cabins on the ship were non-smoking, despite my having been promised by Get Your Guide that I would be allocated to a smoking ship. I escalated this to Get Your Guide and was simply stonewalled, without even an apology for being misled.

Secondly, it emerged that there would be no actual cruising that day, the ship simply remaining in port, moored tightly between two other ships.

This was my view for the remainder of the day.

The cruise included meals, which were served in a buffet setting. The food was luke warm and rather uninspiring, but at least edible.

After a disappointing first day, I was looking forward to the following day’s hot air balloon flight over Luxor, which will be the subject of my next article.