July 2022 - Rebel Flying

Trip review – Norway in a Nutshell Tour

21 July 2022
by thebouncer

On July 1 of this year, I took the spectacular one-day Norway in a Nutshell tour, including a fjord cruise and a trip on the world famous Flåm Railway.

Moving on from the charming coastal city of Bergen back to Oslo, I investigated several ways to travel between the two cities.

The obvious would be a flight at a cost of around €200 one way or a direct train for around €150.

In comparison with these options, the one way Norway in a Nutshell tour seemed to be an intriguing option at around €250. It turned out to be a good choice.

I started the day by dropping my luggage at the front desk of the Hotel Oleana to be collected at 06:30 and delivered to my hotel in Oslo. At around €30, this option saved a lot of hassle and I would highly recommend taking it.

The tour started with an hour’s train journey from Bergen to Voss and continued by bus to Gudvangen with a short break at the scenic Stalheim Hotel.

The next stage of the tour was a relaxing two-hour cruise along the picturesque Sognefjord from Gudvangen to Flåm, before joining the world famous Flåm Railway for a spectacular one-hour climb to Myrdal.

This was really the end of the scenic part of the day and it was time to settle back for the 5-hour train connection to Oslo.

One tip I can share is that, although there is officially no first class on these trains, some carriages are configured in the old first class layout and are decidedly more comfortable than the standard seats. There is no extra cost to reserve a seat in these carriages.

With a scheduled 20:45 arrival in Oslo, which turned out to be around 21:30 after a few delays, I decided to eat my evening meal on the train. The food on board is expensive and honestly nothing special, but it was worth it for the convenience. This little feast was mine for around €30.

On arrival in Oslo, I transferred to the Clarion Collection Hotel Folketeateret a few minutes walk from Oslo Central station, to find that my luggage was waiting for me at reception.

In summary, I would say that the Norway in a Nutshell tour is an excellent option for travelling between Bergen and Oslo. It is a long day, but very much worthwhile and the price of the tour is not much more than the basic direct options for travel.

Hotel review – Hotel Oleana, Bergen

My base for my 3 nights in Bergen was the Hotel Oleana, a centrally located boutique hotel, a 10 minute walk or 2 minute tram ride from the central railway station.

After a quick and efficient check in, I found my room along corridors decorated with colourful images of characters in various stages of undress and opened my door to find my room (or possibly boudoir).

Feeling rather relieved not to find a mirror stuck to the ceiling, I slept very well on the comfortable bed, aided by the efficient air conditioning. The shower overlooks the rest of the room of course, but this was not an issue for a single traveller and it was hot and refreshing.

There was a minibar, but the price list convinced me to head out for a couple of beers instead.

Breakfast was delicious, with a good range of hot items (actually served hot), smoked salmon, nice cheeses and pastries and good, fresh coffee.

On the morning of my departure, my luggage was stored and sent with a courier to my next hotel in Oslo, while I headed off on the Norway in a Nutshell tour.

I must admit that when I first arrived at this property, the gaudy decor was a little off-putting and I assumed that this was going to be just another “boutique” hotel that places style over substance.

I was wrong. This place has style and substance. It is a comfortable, efficient and thoroughly well run property, which grew on me considerably over the course of my three day stay.

Never judge a book by its cover.

Destination guide – Bergen, Norway

After my sojourn in Tromsø, I headed down to Bergen on Norway’s west coast to take advantage of the continued warm Summer weather. Here is my brief Bergen destination guide.

Bergen, known as the Gateway to the Fjords, is an engaging port city renowned for its sublime scenery and tasty seafood.

I started with a trip up the Fløyen on the funicular railway, which ascends a total of 320m in around 6 minutes. Departures are more or less continual during busy times.

Of course nobody can go to Bergen without getting out on the water and seeing some of the Fjords, so I headed out on a 3-hour cruise on board a comfortable catamaran, which was expensive at 740NOK (£62/€72/$74), but well worth every penny.

If you want to see the true essence of this part of Norway, this is the way to do it. The cruise heads out towards Mostraumen, passing lush, verdant hills and charming fishing villages.

I rounded off the trip with a stroll around the city’s pleasant parks and gardens and a taste of some of the famous seafood at the famous fish market.

I am very glad I had the chance to visit this appealing city. It is truly one if the highlights of Norway and I would highly recommend spending a few days here. If you do come I hope this Bergen destination guide has been useful and don’t forget to post in the forums!

South Africa removes all restrictions

It was announced last week that South Africa has repealed all covid related restrictions, including its mask mandate and all vaccination and testing requirements for entry.

This is very good news indeed for libertarian travellers seeking to escape the northern hemisphere Winter, as South Africa is a beautiful, varied and very economical country to visit.

On the flip side, however, it must be remembered that South Africa’s lockdowns were among the most brutal in the world. All social contact was forbidden for months and there was even a long lasting ban on any sales of alcohol or tobacco. Citizens were forced to wear masks indoors and out for nearly two years.

With this in mind, I have to greet this news with caution. With that said, all of the signs are positive. The government seems to be making all of the right noises about falling hospitalisation numbers and learning to live with the virus. This step has also been taken close to the middle of the South African Winter and outside of the main tourist season. I believe this bodes well for the upcoming Summer season from November to March.

I will be monitoring the situation closely in the coming weeks and months before I make any firm bookings, but I very much hope to be publishing a few articles on Johannesburg, Cape Town and the Garden Route this Winter.

Hotel review – Clarion Collection Hotel Aurora, Tromsø

My home for the 3 nights in Tromsø was the Clarion Collection Hotel Aurora, booked as part of my Nordic Choice Unlimited Nights package.

The hotel is perfectly situated, right on the picturesque harbour front.

The rooms are comfortable and functional in Scandinavian style.

The stay included breakfast and like all Clarion Collection Hotels, an evening meal. As this was my first stay at this particular brand, I was a little unsure of what to expect from the evening meal. I was however, pleasantly surprised.

Each meal consisted of a soup of the day and a main course. There was only one choice of main course, but I can honestly say they were all decent. Examples included pork neck and chicken cacciatore. I have pretty universal tastes in food, so I was very happy with it.

There was also a nice salad bar.

Water, orange juice and coffee were included and other drinks were available for purchase.

Breakfast, however, was somewhat of a let down. Most of the cooked dishes – bacon, sausages and meatballs – were stone cold on all three mornings of my stay and the milk ran out within about 20 minutes.

Breakfast aside, I was generally satisfied with my stay and it was superb value as part of my two month Nordic Choice pass, at a cost of €3,000 for 58 nights, which works out at a little under €52 per night.

Flight review – Widerøe Tromsø – Bergen

Following Tromsø, my next destination was Bergen, necessitating another flight.

The only direct flight between Tromsø and Bergen is operated by Widerøe, an airline I had never flown before.

Other options are Norwegian and SAS, but bot require at least one change if flight in Oslo.

With this in mind, I decided to give Widerøe a go.

The ground experience is very basic, with self service bag drop and no security fast track or lounge.

The on board experience is also basic, but no more so than economy class on just about any other carrier operating within Europe.

At an even six feet, I found the 29-inch seat pitch rather tight.

A buy-on-board menu is offered, although this short 10:35am flight was a little too soon after breakfast and not quite beer o’clock, so I settled for the complimentary coffee.

Overall, this experience was comparable to the better low cost airlines in Europe, such as easyJet. Given the convenience of the direct flight I was satisfied with the experience, although at around £225 or $270 it was rather pricey for what it was.

Hotel review – Comfort Hotel Runway, Oslo Airport

Prior to my flight to Tromsø, I parked up at Oslo Airport and stayed overnight at the Comfort Hotel Runway, a 10 minute bus ride from the terminal.

This is an airport hotel, designed for one night stays before or after flights and that is reflected in the facilities provided.

With that said, I was perfectly happy with the comfort of my room, which had a double bed, functioning air conditioning and a hot shower, which is all I really cared about for a one-night airport stay.

As a bonus, there was a nice view of the airport taxi ways.

I have to say the food was a bit of a let down. Guests have to option of dining at the restaurant belonging to a neighbouring hotel, but there is very little choice of food on site. I ended up dropping the better part of $20 on a microwaved taco and a soft drink.

Breakfast was limited with the usual bacon and eggs and the addition of a few cold cuts. However, the juice and milk had run out so I was stuck with water and black coffee.

Honestly, this hotel is a perfectly acceptable option for a one-night layover, but the catering is poor. I would recommend eating before arrival or choosing one of the similarly priced options on the other side of the airport, with more options nearby.